為促進環境及紡織行業的可持續發展,從事紡織科技(Techstyle)早期投資的南豐作坊(The Mills Fabrica),近期積極吸納「新生物料」的初創企業。南豐作坊總經理兼亞洲主管Cintia Nunes表示,每月至少視察30家至50家相關初創企業,當中70%來自外地,餘下30%來自香港;她又指,在接觸海外初創企業的過程中,發現他們都期望藉着「新生物料」,進軍香港及內地市場。
不少人混淆早年曾盛行的「新材料」和「新生物料」。Cintia Nunes解釋,雖然「新材料」是新一代的材料,且可延伸至紡織以外的用途,但未必可降解(Biodegradable)。至於「新生物料」,Cintia Nunes表示,雖然同樣未能做到完全可降解,但仍可歸類為生物材料,並且是有機化合物。
投資「新生物料」退出時間較長
Cintia Nunes指出,目前南豐作坊投資初創企業的內部回報率(IRR)目標介乎15%至20%,但坦言相比其他行業,投資「新生物料」的退出(Exit)時間,會較一般初創企業的7至10年為長,而從事「新生物料」的成本及產品售價,也成為行業發展的樽頸。
根據可持續紡織促進會(Textile Exchange)於去年發表的報告顯示,現時合成纖維佔全球纖維產量的65%,其中56%的纖維來自化石燃料,這意味當生產過程中的廢料被分解時,勢加劇溫室氣體排放,所以Cintia Nunes認為,南豐作坊在選擇「新生物料」的初創企業時,除了考慮業務發展的可能性,更會考慮該等初創企業的業務,是否對環境帶來正面影響。(記者 鄺偉軒)
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