全球咖啡可持续观:咖啡需求背后的环境与社会影响

 
撰稿:
Philippe LI – 可持续发展  
Ryan LAI
– 可持续发展
图片来源:Canva.com

环球咖啡潮流盛行,却渐渐在产业形成恶性循环,危害供应链和环境。

图片来源:Canva.com
 

试想像一下,全球每日饮用超过22.5亿杯咖啡1——数字相当惊人,而且大众对咖啡的狂热程度仍然与日俱增,尤其是在中国等新兴市场;其中,该国的咖啡饮用量自2010年起每年增长达21%2。不断增加的不仅是大众对咖啡的需求,还有这股需求对咖啡供应链和环境造成的压力。加上气候变化,情况将更为严峻。

专家预计,全球咖啡饮用量到2050年将急升三倍。然而,要满足如此庞大的需求绝非易事4。除收成不稳定外,全球咖啡存货比率下降,也令咖啡产量更加难以预测,加剧供应相关的风险。虽然咖啡胶囊、即溶咖啡等产品,让大众可以用更少材料,更快捷、有效、方便地冲泡一杯咖啡;但当咖啡越唾手可得,我们越喝得多,反而抵消了这些产品原有的环境效益。5

 

圖一 世界各地咖啡飲用量(2018-20233

种植咖啡留下庞大的环境足迹。加上气候变化,让世界各地对此难题更加束手无策。

你知道生产一公斤咖啡所产生的温室气体,竟然可与资源消耗量极高的牛肉或养殖虾肉相若吗?6而且,相比起猪肉或禽类等常见蛋白质来源,种植咖啡需要更多土地。7

此外,扩大种植咖啡的土地也令主要生产国砍伐更多森林;以洪都拉斯为例,种植咖啡的土地占该国于2017年所砍伐的森林50%,大量温室气体因此释放,危害当地的生物多样性。8

 

圖二 咖啡的溫室氣體排放分項數字 9

气温上升也令两个影响咖啡农作物收成的主要威胁——咖啡叶锈病(CLR)和咖啡果小蠹(CBB)——加速扩散。咖啡叶锈病令危地马拉的小规模农户失去高达71%的收成10,与此同时,咖啡果小蠹虫害已蔓延至高海拔地区,令原本能在这些地区安全成长的阿拉比卡豆受到更多天敌11的威胁。预计到了2050年,埃塞俄比亚、墨西哥及肯尼亚等国种植咖啡的土地有90%将不再适合种植咖啡,届时农夫需要另觅土地耕种,而这些土地往往来自森林地区,意味着更多森林将会被砍伐,进一步威胁生态环境,将地球推向极限边缘。12 13

价格波动和咖啡树生长速度缓慢,让农民饱受精神煎熬,而产业内的劳工虐待问题仍然严重。

你有否想过咖啡由种豆变成杯中物,过程花耗多少人力物力?对于咖啡农来说,这是一个漫长而艰辛的过程。咖啡树一般需时四年才能收成,所以农民要长年面对经济不确定性和价格浮动。越南有研究指出,这些压力令农民更易患上抑郁症、影响睡眠质量和出现酗酒问题,揭示社会为不稳定的咖啡市场付出的代价。14不幸的是,这些问题只属冰山一角。在2022年,巴西一个咖啡农场内有159名年轻工人获救,脱离奴隶般的工作环境15,其中年龄最小的只有15岁。即使在获道德认证的农场中,依然发现虐待问题,情况令人震惊之余,更暴露整个咖啡产业内劳工权益保障的严重失衡。

 
图片来源:Canva.com

业内急需创新的方案,稳定供应的同时,降低咖啡对环境造成的影响

研究指出,若从种植、运输和饮用方式等各个咖啡价值链中的环节做出改变,碳排放已经能降低近77%。16可见改善供应链效能和降低损失至关重要。此外,环境足迹较小的替代咖啡产品也能有效降低我们对传统咖啡种植产业的依赖。

未来的咖啡产业需要各种科学为本的智慧方案,以一并解决行业面临的环境、社会以及经济难题。融入创新和可持续发展思维,有助咖啡业打破需求增加与气候影响的恶性循环,在确保行业蓬勃发展的同时,保护地球和赖以为生的群体。

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