網誌

 

循環經濟已經成為當今世代的重要議題。自新冠肺炎疫情爆發以來,大眾對韌性(resilience)和可持續發展的關注日漸加深。現在,各大公司為了未雨綢繆,不斷尋找替代物料和循環模式 —— 正當可持續發展成為大勢所趨,我們更需要透過業界合作,造就更大正面效益。

南豐作坊在這份報告中,主要探討服裝行業如何發展循環經濟。報告輔以全球品牌和創新者的研究案例,助大家認清這現象背後的幾項主要動力和阻礙。在我們鑽研了循環經濟時,發現需要社群的團結努力,才可以帶動業界由「索取、製造、丟棄」模式(take-make-dispose)轉型到循環經濟。

 

循環時裝廣受關注

越來越多成衣品牌和零售商開始採取推行循環模式,減輕時裝行業對環境帶來的負面影響;這包括再售和出租等「二次商貿」(re-commerce)模式、循環再造、替代石油產品的物料和再生農業。市場上現存的創新科技已覆蓋價值鏈中的各個環節從原料製造到消費後的階段。

歐盟自去年開始採取《循環經濟行動計劃》(Circular Economy Action Plan),以幫助可持續產品走進主流市場為目標。預期未來有更多不同規模的公司,透過多個項目推動循環時裝。

 

圖一:創新造就循環時裝

 

財務、基建及社會文化障礙仍然存在

即使循環時裝得到不少關注,仍有不少阻窒礙著行業轉型到循環經濟的因素。例如說,替代物料和循環經濟模式需要更符合經濟邏輯;初企亦需要更多資金擴大研發創新科技的規模。在基建方面,為製造設計的流程、回收、分類和循環再造的設施之間需要加強配合,以應付全面的閉環生產。此外,我們需要政府和整個社群創造更多誘因,並提升大眾對相關議題的關注,才能造就整體的行為改變。

 

圖二:阻礙轉移到循環經濟的主要因素

 

越來越多私人公司和公共機構合作,希望解決這些問題。例如說,歐盟撥款支持的「新棉花計劃」(New Cotton Project),便從去年開始凝聚一班創新者、製造商和品牌,進行為期三年的循環模式試驗,藉此解決紡織廢物的問題。這些計劃有助業界更快地試驗創新技術,並透過提升業界參與實現規模經濟。

 

透過合作尋求更大效益

我們需要更多試點和合作計劃推動循環經濟的發展, 而試點計劃所提供的機會,讓業界和顧客一同參與驗證和試驗突破性科技。業界中較著名的例子有瑞典紡織回收公司Renewcell和美國植物性肉類公司Impossible Foods,他們都成功透過試點計劃推動合作,從而擴大他們的營運規模。此外,大規模的合作計劃有助改善業界的共同挑戰。現在全球主要透過三種的合作模式,聯同關鍵的持份者解決業界的常見問題:工作小組、創新採購和創新者試點計劃。

 

圖三:三種主要推動循環經濟的合作模式

 

未來前瞻

本報告特別提到三項在本地得到相當關注的循環模式計劃:G2G舊衣新裳循環系統、Novetex升級再造工廠,以及「塑新生」的合資項目。儘管業界已經花了不少功夫,我們仍能從經驗中汲取經驗,並且向全球成功例子借鑑,造就香港乃至整個亞洲的循環經濟。轉移到循環經濟需要結合各界持份者的力量,以釐清我們眼前的挑戰,並且開啟更多業界的試點計劃。我們希望本報告能夠啟發大家,作為業界推動實際行動的實用手冊。

如果您有興趣了解更多關於本報告的內容,請下載並瀏覽《推動循環經濟:合力創造行業效益》報告

 

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