《推动循环经济:合力创造行业效益》报告

循环经济已经成为当今世代的重要议题。自新冠肺炎疫情爆发以来,大众对韧性(resilience)和可持续发展的关注日渐加深。现在,各大公司为了未雨绸缪,不断寻找替代物料和循环模式 —— 正当可持续发展成为大势所趋,我们更需要透过业界合作,造就更大正面效益。

南丰作坊在这份报告中,主要探讨服装行业如何发展循环经济。报告辅以全球品牌和创新者的研究案例,助大家认清这现象背後的几项主要动力和阻碍。在我们钻研了循环经济时,发现需要社群的团结努力,才可以带动业界由「索取、製造、丢弃」模式(take-make-dispose)转型到循环经济。

循环时装广受关注

越来越多成衣品牌和零售商开始采取推行循环模式,减轻时装行业对环境带来的负面影响;这包括再售和出租等「二次商贸」(re-commerce)模式、循环再造、替代石油产品的物料和再生农业。市场上现存的创新科技已覆盖价值链中的各个环节从原料製造到消费後的阶段。

欧盟自去年开始采取《循环经济行动计划》(Circular Economy Action Plan),以帮助可持续产品走进主流市场为目标。预期未来有更多不同规模的公司,透过多个项目推动循环时装。

图一:创新造就循环时装

财务、基建及社会文化障碍仍然存在

即使循环时装得到不少关注,仍有不少阻窒碍著行业转型到循环经济的因素。例如说,替代物料和循环经济模式需要更符合经济逻辑;初企亦需要更多资金扩大研发创新科技的规模。在基建方面,为製造设计的流程、回收、分类和循环再造的设施之间需要加强配合,以应付全面的闭环生产。此外,我们需要政府和整个社群创造更多诱因,并提升大众对相关议题的关注,才能造就整体的行为改变。

图二:阻碍转移到循环经济的主要因素

 

越来越多私人公司和公共机构合作,希望解决这些问题。例如说,欧盟拨款支持的「新棉花计划」(New Cotton Project),便从去年开始凝聚一班创新者、製造商和品牌,进行为期叁年的循环模式试验,藉此解决纺织废物的问题。这些计划有助业界更快地试验创新技术,并透过提升业界参与实现规模经济。

透过合作寻求更大效益

我们需要更多试点和合作计划推动循环经济的发展, 而试点计划所提供的机会,让业界和顾客一同参与验證和试验突破性科技。业界中较著名的例子有瑞典纺织回收公司Renewcell和美国植物性肉类公司Impossible Foods,他们都成功透过试点计划推动合作,从而扩大他们的营运规模。此外,大规模的合作计划有助改善业界的共同挑战。现在全球主要透过叁种的合作模式,联同关键的持份者解决业界的常见问题:工作小组、创新采购和创新者试点计划。

图叁:叁种主要推动循环经济的合作模式

 

未来前瞻

本报告特别提到叁项在本地得到相当关注的循环模式计划:G2G旧衣新裳循环系统、Novetex升级再造工厂,以及「塑新生」的合资项目。儘管业界已经花了不少功夫,我们仍能从经验中汲取经验,并且向全球成功例子借鑑,造就香港乃至整个亚洲的循环经济。转移到循环经济需要结合各界持份者的力量,以釐清我们眼前的挑战,并且开启更多业界的试点计划。我们希望本报告能够启发大家,作为业界推动实际行动的实用手册。

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